In the movie, Harry Potter, the scarf is different for the younger grades, than it is for the older grades. This is the older grade level’s scarf. It does look a little more sophisticated than the younger scarf.
This scarf is also longer than the first year’s scarf.
Hogwart Houses:
Gryffindor: Red and Gold (red being the primary color)
Ravenclaw: Blue and Bronze (The bronze looks gray to me so that is what I used. Blue is the primary color.)
Slytherin: Green and Silver (Green being the primary color.)
Hufflepuff: Black and Yellow (Yellow is the primary color.)
Crochet Materials Needed:
Red yarn- I used Caron- Claret
Yellow/gold yarn- I used Caron- Sunflower
H hook/ 5 mm
Scissors
Dimensions
7 inches wide
75 1/2 inches long
8 inches of fringe
Plain red sections split up by 2 yellow stripes and 1 red stripe. There are 10 sections of stripes. 11 sections of red squares.
Gryffindor Children’s Scarf
Ch 21
Row 1- 14: (Red) (Row 1- begins in the second ch from the hook.) sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 15-16: join with gold, sc across, ch 1 turn
Row 17-18: with red, sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 19-20: with gold sc across, ch 1, turn
Rows 21-210: – Repeat Rows 1-20
Rows 211-224: repeat rows 1-14. tie off
*Start with the red color and end with the red.
With the blunt yarn needle sew in the loose ends.
Fringe For Gryffindor Scarf
You need sections of red and gold that are 17- 18 inches long (4 strands in each group). Tie to the ends, by folding in half and using crochet hook, pull the middle of the folded strand through as one big group. You will have a loop now through your project. Pull the ends through the loop and it will tie them in a knot.
Start with red and end with red, alternating red and gold. (I did 15 groups, you can do more or fewer. Space them to your liking.)
*Make sure you tie them on the same side of the project. It doesn’t matter which side, just make sure you are pulling them through on the same side.
Years ago I made Harry Potter scarves for each house and the two different styles. Hearing my niece is now huge into Harry Potter it was time to crochet her a Gryffindor scarf! Her favorite house!
All houses can be made with this pattern. The children’s is narrower and a little shorter than the adult ones I have made.
Hogwart Houses:
Gryffindor: Red and Gold (red being the primary color)
Ravenclaw: Blue and Bronze (The bronze looks gray to me so that is what I used. Blue is the primary color.)
Slytherin: Green and Silver (Green being the primary color.)
Hufflepuff: Black and Yellow (Yellow is the primary color.)
Crochet Materials Needed:
Red yarn- I used Caron- Claret
Yellow/gold yarn- I used Caron- Sunflower
H hook/ 5 mm
scissors
Dimensions
7 inches wide
71 1/2 inches long
Fringe is 8 inches long
11 sections alternating red and gold. Interesting that they begin school at age 11 at Hogwarts!
Crochet Scarf Directions
Harry Potter children’s scarf
Ch 21
Red
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (20)
Row 2-18: sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn. (20)
Gold
Row 19: join the gold and sc across, ch 1 turn
Rows 20-36: sc across, ch 1, turn
Red
Row 37: join the red, sc across, ch1, turn
Rows 38- 54: sc across, ch 1, turn
Rows 55-198: repeat rows 19-54
You should start with the red and end with the red. There should be 11 sections in all, alternating red and gold.
Sew in the ends.
Fringe for scarf
Notice the difference between the knots and make sure you are doing them the same direction.
You need sections of red and gold that are 17- 18 inches long (4 strands in each group). Tie to the ends, by folding in half and using crochet hook, pull the middle of the folded strand through as one big group. You will have a loop now through your project. Pull the ends through the loop and it will tie them in a knot.
Start with red and end with red, alternating red and gold. (19 groups, you can do fewer, to space them out and not be quite so crowded.)
*Make sure you tie them on the same side of the project. It doesn’t matter which side, just make sure you are pulling them through on the same side.
I was in need of a new project and decided to do this simple, yet pretty combination. With a peek-a-boo edging and shells. I really like the way it turned out! It is such a pretty soft pink with a lacy feel.
Peek-A-Boo Materials
Bernat Baby Sport yarn- Baby Pink
Hook size H
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Peek-A-Boo Instructions
Chain 114
Row 1: In second ch from hook sc, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, sc in next ch, repeat *, ch 2, turn
Row 2: hdc in next ch space, ch 1, skip 1 sc, hdc in next ch space, across, hdc in last sc, (there will be 2 hdc together), ch 4, turn
Row 3: Ch 4 will count as first dc and ch 1 space of this row, *dc in next ch space, ch 1, skip hdc, * ch 2, turn
Row 4: repeat row 2 * end with a ch 1 and a turn at the end
Row 5: Row 5 is like row one, sc in first stitch, *ch 1, skip hdc, sc next ch space, hdc across* ch 1, turn
Row 6: sc in each sc and ch across, ch 1, turn
Row 7: sc first sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, sc next, across*
Rows 8- 98: Repeat rows 2-7 in order 14 more times.
Peek-A-Boo Edging:
Row 1: Ch 1, don’t turn, 2 sc in stitch going down the side. This is your corner. Evenly sc down side, 3 sc in corner, sc across bottom, sc evenly on side, 3sc in corner, sc across top, slip stitch in 1st ch
Row 2: 2 sc in next sc, sc around, in each corner’s middle stitch 3sc, join with slip stitch, ch 1
Row 3: repeat 2
Row 4: ch 5, skip 2, dc in next, *ch 2, skip 2, dc next, repeat * join with slip stitch into top of chain 3 (leaving 2 chains afterwards), ch 1
Row 5: sc in same stitch, (single crochet until you are at the stitch that looks like it matches with the corner, do 3 sc in the corner stitch whether it is a dc or a ch it doesn’t matter.) sc around the top of the last row made in each ch and dc making 3 sc in each “corner” stitch. Join with slip stitch in first sc of row, ch 1
Row 6: sc in same stitch, skip 2 sc, *dc in next sc, around this dc post dc 4 times, skip 2, sc next, repeat* Join with slip stitch into first sc and tie off.
These make wonderful baby gifts and are pretty too! I strongly suggest looking for sales on flannel. I found the best sale for flannel during black Friday, last year!
Edging Materials
Awl
crochet hook size 2.5 (B)
crochet thread
scissors
needle- to sew in ends when finished
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Prepping for the Edging
Once you have cut and sewn your burp cloths and blankets together, it is time to prep for the edging.
Your seam for the burp cloth after trimming, clipping and turning should be about 1/4″ this is perfect for where to punch the holes into the material. I measure between holes with my pinky.
Pinky covers part of the 1st hole and the next hole is made on the other side of my pinky. Continue around and make last hole as evenly between first as possible.
Instructions for Crocheting Edging
Foundation Row
Attach thread to the hook with a slip knot. *Push crochet hook through the hole, yarn over, go back through the hole, yarn over, pull through one loop, yarn over pull through remainder loops, (One loop should remain on hook), make two chains and repeat* After the last hole, ch 2, slip stitch into first stitch made at the beginning.
Row 2
Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each ch and sc around to beginning. When you reach where you started slip stitch into first stitch.
Row 3
ch 1, sc, * sc next sc, ,ch 3, skip 2, repeat *, last ch 3, then slip stitch in sc at beg
Row 4
Ch 1 sc next sc, *ch 2, sc next ch, ch 3, sc nxt ch, ch 2, sc nxt ch, sc in sc, repeat*
Finished Product
I have 8 burp cloths ready to go for the next baby shower!
This is a great pattern for a warm, winter blanket for baby! The stitches are close together and it forms a thatching like a woven basket. I made a very large afghan using the basket weave stitch a couple of years ago. It is a more advanced pattern as you are working by putting your hook around the post of the previous rows dc. You do this either from the front of the project or the back of the project.
The stitches create a pattern across of 3 in front and then 3 in back. A pattern of 3 is also worked in the rows as the pattern remains the same for 3 rows and then alternates 3 rows that shift the order of going from front to back to back to front across. When you are done it looks like you could fold it into a basket.
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
Pay attention to the alternating pattern. Rows of 3 make the illusion of weaving rows and columns.
3 rows and 3 columns make it easy to double check your accuracy in the pattern.
Basket Weave Materials
Hook H
2 Large Skeins of yarn- baby sport- (I couldn’t find the name of the color I used or anything like it on Amazon)
Scissors
Needle for weaving in ends to finish off project
Basket Weave Instructions
Ch 111
H hook
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn
Row 2: ch 2, sk 1st stitch, *fpdc in next through the front, fpdc next 2 dc, around the next dc come from the back and do a bpdc, bpdc next 2, continue * sets of 3, fpdc & 3 bpdc across, hdc in ch space, turn,
Rows 3 and 4: repeat row 2
Row 5: ch 2, sk 1st stitch, *bpdc around next dc through back, bpdc next 2 dc, fpdc around next 3 dc, * repeat (sets of 3 bpdc & 3 fpdc across, hdc in ch space, turn ch 2
*careful it is easy to make mistakes when alternating the pattern
Rows 6 and 7: repeat row 5
Rows 8-10: repeat row 2
Rows 11-13: repeat row 5
Rows 14-16: repeat row 2
Rows 17-19: repeat row 5
Rows 20-22: repeat row 2
Rows 23-25: repeat row 5
Rows 26-28: repeat row 2
Rows 29-31: repeat row 5
Rows 32-34: repeat row 2
Rows 35-37: repeat row 5
Rows 38-40: repeat row 2
Rows 41-43: repeat row 5
Rows 44-46: repeat row 2
Rows 47-49: repeat row 5
Rows 50-52: repeat row 2
Rows 53-55: repeat row 5
Rows 56-58: repeat row 2
Rows 59-61: repeat row 5
Rows 62-64: repeat row 2
Rows 65-67: repeat row 5
Rows 68-70: repeat row 2
Rows 71-73: repeat row 5
Rows 74-76: repeat row 2
Border
Row 77: at end of row 76 ch 3 and turn. Skip first stitch. Ch 3 is the first double crochet in this row. Dc in second stitch and all the way across to the end of the row. 3 dc in each corner and down each side. (last corner 3 dc, slip stitch in top of chain 3 chain.
Row 78: ch 1, *sk 2, dc 4 in next dc, ch 3, slip st in 1st ch just made, 4 dc in same stitch as 1st 4 dc , sk 2, sc, * repeat Join with a slip stitch in first stitch of row, tie off. Sew in ends.
This pattern is more advanced with treble crochets, skipping and crocheting in front or behind stitches and the crabstitch. The crabstitch is crocheting backwards, but don’t let that scare you! There is a link to a great tutorial.
This is a very neutral pattern with an “x” stitch and arrows. It reminds me of bows and arrows.
Arrows break up the row of “X”s
Bow and Arrow Material List
2 light green Baby Bernat Yarn (The big skeins)
Crochet hook H/8mm US size
Yarn Needle
Scissors
Stitch Chart
ch= chain
sc=single crochet
dc= double crochet (wrapping yarn once before going through the stitch)
tr= treble crochet (wrapping yarn twice before going through the stitch)
sk= skip
Bow and Arrow Crochet Instructions
Ch 138
Row 1: Sk 2 ch , dc in third ch from hook, dc across 136 chain 3 turn
Row 2: (ch 3 counts as 1st dc) skip 1st dc and dc in second dc, skip 3 dc, tr in next dc, (working behind the tr just made) dc in each of the dc spaces that were skipped, skip 3 dc, tr in next dc, (working behind tr) dc in each of the 3 skipped dc, repeat across. In last 3 dc, dc, Ch 2, turn
Row 3: dc in 1st 3 dc spaces,* sk 3, tr in next dc. (work in front of tr) dc in 3 skipped dc, repeat across from * Dc in last two dc, ch 1 turn
Row 4: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn
Row 5: sc in each st across, ch 3 turn
Row 6: sk 3 tr in next sc, ch 1, tr in second skipped sc, * skip 2, tr in next sc, ch 1, tr in first skipped sc in this grouping, repeat *, dc in last st with the tr, ch 1, turn
Row 7: sc in first dc and each tr and ch across. Ch 3 turn
Rows 8 – 25 : repeat row 6, repeat row 7, ending with a ch 1, turn
Row 26- sc across, ch 3 turn
Row 27: (ch 3 counts as first dc) repeat row 3
Row 28: repeat row 2, ch 1, turn
Row 29: sc across, ch 1 turn
Row 30: repeat row 5
Rows 31- 50: repeat row 6 and then Row 7, alternating rows
Follow the arrows. Make sure your arrow rows are all on the same side.
Row 51: sc across, ch 3, turn
Row 52: repeat row 2
(53) repeat row 3
(54) sc across, ch 1, turn
(55) repeat row 5
Rows 56- 75: repeat row 6 and row 7 respectively
Row 76: ch 1 turn at end of row 75. Sc across, ch 3, turn
Row 77: repeat row 3, ch 3, turn
78: Ch 3 counts as 1st dc, dc in next dc, *sk 3, tr in next dc, dc in the 3 skipped dc (working behind the tr just made), repeat, dc in last 3 dc, ch3, turn
79: ch 3 is 1st dc, dc across
Tie off
Border
Round 1: with front facing you, 3 sc in corner, sc evenly down each side with 3 sc in each corner. Join with a slip stitch, ch 1 don’t turn
This is a tricky stitch. You literally crochet backwards. It makes a nice finished edge. I especially like it for afghans and blankets that need a little more masculine look. Check out the link for the tutorial for more help.
Round 2: put hook through 1st stitch to the right. Yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through both loops. (crochet backwards, crab stitch) Join with a slip stitch in the first stitch.
We felt so helpless when my brother-in-law, suddenly passed away in January. He lived about 12 hours away from us and there was so much red tape to get through. His friends were very much family to him and Cassey is one of the best! She was there for him, through thick and thin and we felt so much gratitude toward her.
I decided to make her an afghan to thank her for all she has done. She was there when he passed away and was instrumental in helping make final arrangements. We can never thank her enough for all she did for Mike.
Purple Cassey
I made the afghan purple, because purple was Mike’s favorite color. I made it more lacey looking, for Cassey.
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Materials:
crochet hook K
(I didn’t keep track, very well, of how much yarn I used. Guessing I would say 8-10 skeins of the lighter purple and 2 of the contrasting darker color.)
The main color of this afghan is orchid
The contrasting color is a deep purple (this is the purple Mike loved)
Stitches:
sl= slip stitch
ch= chain
sc= single crochet
dc= double crochet
sk= skip
tr= treble
When slip stitching in front loops, that means to only go through the front loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
dc back loops- only put your hook through the back loops and double crochet like you are used to doing.
Directions:
Ch 145
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc across
Row 2: ch 3, turn, counts as 1st dc, dc across (144)
You can see the raised ridge that is created by slip stitch crocheting in the front loops.
Row 3: ch 1, turn, slip st front loops
Row 4: ch 3, dc back loops
Row 5: ch 4 turn (1st dc &h 1), sk 1 dc, dc, ch sk 1 dc, dc in last ch 3 space
Row 6: ch 3, dc, *ch 1, skip 1, dc in dc, repeat this 7 times, after the 7th dc, dc in ch space, dc in next dc, repeat the whole sequence from the * across. There should be 6 dc posts between each cluster of 3. 8 sets of 3 dc together. (Ends with 7 dc posts)
The square boxes have clusters of 3 and there are 6 dc posts between the clusters.
Row 7: ch 4 turn, dc in next dc, *ch 1, skip 1, dc next dc, repeat this sequence 5 times, dc in next ch space, dc in next dc, ch 5, skip 1 dc, dc next dc (last dc in set of 3 on previous row) repeat from * across. (1st set has 6 dc posts. 4 dc post between the rest of the sets) dc in last 3 dc and dc in top of ch 3
Here we begin to make the bottom of the flower.
Here’s what the end of the row looks like
Row 8: ch 3, dc, ch 1, dc, dc in ch, dc in dc, *ch 1, skip ch, dc in dc, ch 1, skip ch, dc in dc, ch 1, dc, dc in ch 1 space, dc in dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc, skip 2 ch, sc in 3rd ch space, ch 4, skip 2 ch, skip 2 dc, dc next dc, dc in ch, dc in next dc space, repeat across * ( 2 posts between sets of 3, 17 sets of 3) row ends with a ch 1 dc in top of ch 3
Now, we have the bottom 3 petals!
Row 9: ch 3, dc in ch, dc in next dc,* ch 1, skip ch, dc in next dc, dc in ch, dc in dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc, skip 3 ch, sc next ch, sc in sc, sc in next ch, ch 4, skip 3 ch, skip 2 dc, dc in last set of 3 dc, dc in ch, dc in next dc, repeat across * row ends with 4 dc in last 2 chs and 2 dcs (this row begins with 3 sets of 3 and ends with 3 sets of 3, 2 sets of 3 between the chs and 3 sc in the middle of the chs)
This takes us to the middle of the flower.
This is how the end of the row looks
Row 10: ch 3 dc, ch 1 skiip dc, dc next dc, dc in ch, dc next dc, ch 1 skip dc, dc next dc, dc in ch, dc in dc, *ch 4, skip 2 dc, skip 3 ch, sc in ch, sc next 3 sc, sc ch, ch 4, skip 3 ch, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, dc in ch, dc in dc, repeat across from * (row ends with 2 sets of 3 dc, ch1 and a dc on the very end in the top of the ch 3)
Notice how there is just one group of 3 between the 2 flowers
End of the row
Row 11: ch 3 turn, dc in ch, dc next dc, ch 1 skip dc, dc next dc, ch 1, dc in ch, dc, ch 1 skip dc, * dc next dc, dc in next 2 ch, ch 4, skip 2 ch, skip 1 sc, sc in next 3 sc, ch 4, skip sc, skip 2 ch, dc next 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip dc, repeat across * end of row ch 1, skip dc, dc next dc, dc in ch, dc next dc, ch 1 skip dc, dc next dc, dc in ch, dc last 2 dc
This row has 2 sets of 3 between flowers
Row 12: ch 3 turn, dc 2nd dc, ch 1, skip, dc next dc, ch 1 skip, dc next dc, ch 1 skip, dc next dc, * ch 1 skip, dc next dc and in next 2 chs, ch 4, skip 2 ch skip 1 sc, sc in next, ch 4, skip 1 sc, skip 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs and next dc, ch 1, skip dc, dc next dc, ch 1 skip ch, dc next dc, repeat across * (2 sets of dc posts between sets of 3 dc) row ends with 2 posts between 2 sets of 3 dc, ch 1 dc in top of ch 3 of last row.
Between the flowers there are 2 sets of 3 and 2 single dc posts
Row 13: ch 3, dc in ch, dc next dc, ch 1, skip dc, dc next dc,ch 1 skip, dc next dc, ch 1, skip, dc, ch 1, skip, dc, ch 1 skip dc, ** dc next dc, dc next 2 chs, ch 1 skip 2 chs, skipsc, skip 2 chs, dc next 2 chs an in next dc, ch 1 skip dc, dc next dc, *ch 1 skip ch, dc next dc, 3 times, ch 1 skip dc, repeat across from ** (4 dc posts between sets of 3) end of row 4 dc
This row closes your flower. It looks so pretty with a diamond shape in the center of the petals.
Row 14: ch 3, dc next dc,* ch 1, skip dc, dc next dc, repeat 7 times, dc next ch, dc next dc, repeat from * across, (6 dc posts between sets of 3) dc in top of ch 3
Row 14 is just like row 6
Row 14 gives stability to the flower
Row 15: ch 3, turn,dc in dc, * ch1 skip 1, dc next, across, dc in ch
Between each section of flowers is this grouping that adds stability to the project and has a row of slip stitch that makes this ridge. Make sure the ridge is always on the same side of your work. The side with the ridge is the right side.
Row 16: ch 3, dc in each ch and dc across
Row 17: ch 1 turn, slip stitch front loops across
Row 18: ch 3, turn, dc in back loops across (144)
Rows of flowers
Row 19-84: repeat rows 5-18 (You will have 7 sections of flowers)
7 sections of flowers
Lattice Border
Row 1: With right side facing you join contrast with a slip stitch, sc across, sc in same sc you did slip stitch.
2 sc each corner
228 sc on each side
Row 2: slip stitch to join in 1st sc, ch 1, sl front loops, join with sl in 1 st ch
Row 3: Don’t turn, sc in back loops behind sl stitches, 2 sc in each 2 corner scs
I started this blanket after cleaning and straightening my yarn “collection”. I found this beautiful sunshine yellow and couldn’t wait to start a baby blanket with it. I had 2 skeins and they did seem a little bigger than what I have found since then, so you may need more than 3.
The whole time I worked on this, I thought it reminded me of sunshine. Then, when I added in the green stripes it made me think of rays of sunshine. I love how it turned out!!!
This pattern has a color change in it. To learn some techniques in changing color, check out this tutorial at Heart Hook Home
Front
Back
The backside has a nice pattern and is flat, whereas the front side is bumpy and very textured.
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Materials
*3 skeins of yellow baby yarn (I used Bernat Baby Coordinates- Lemon Custard)
*The first two skeins I used seemed bigger and were in my “collection” of yarn. You may need a skein or two more than what I used.
1 Scan of contrasting color baby yarn (I used Bernat Baby Coordinates- Iced Mint)
Hook H or I
Yarn needle (for sewing in ends)
Scissors for trimming
Stitch Legend
sc= single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, (2 loops on hook) yarn over, pull through the two loops that were on hook. tr= Treble crochet which basically means how many times you pull the loops off of the hook (3), so yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, yarn over and pull off two loops, yarn over and pull of two loops, yarn over and pull through the last two loops sl: slip stitch- insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch and the loop that is on the hook.
Alternating Patterns
Pattern alternates from a textured row to a single crochet. The textured row alternates between a treble crochet and single crochet.
Ray of Sunshine Blanket Instructions
Ch 108
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (107)
*The next row alternates between sc and tr. Row 2: sc in first sc, tr in next, across. The last stitch should end with a sc, ch 1, turn. Row 3: sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. Rows 4- 76: Repeat Rows 2-3
Now, we are going to add in our contrasting color (Iced Mint)
Row 77: join with a slip stitch, contrasting color with the ch 1 and then turn, repeat row 3 Rows 78-82: Repeat rows 2-3 Join with main color at the end of row 82 with a slip stitch Rows 83-88: Repeat rows 3-2. Join with contrasting color at the end of row 88 with a slip stitch Rows 89- 94: Repeat rows 3-2. Join with main color at the end of row 94 with a slip stitch Rows 95-100: Repeat rows 3-2. Join with contrasting color at the end of row 100 Rows 101-106: Repeat rows 3-2. Join with main color at the end of row 106 with a slip stitch Row 107- 112: Repeat rows 302. Join with contrasting color with a slip stitch and continue with the border.
Border
Row 1: Ch 1 sc 1st st, and evenly all the way around the edge of the blanket, join beginning stitch with a slip stitch Row 2: sc in first sc, *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2, sc in next sc, repeat from * around the blanket, slip stitch to join beginning of row.
Row 3: join contrast w/ sl st , ch 1, sc around blanket joining with a sl stitch
Sew in the loose ends of yarn. *I always do this at the end, some people sew them in as they go.
Comfy, warm and pretty scarf. This pattern is similar to a honeycomb, in the way that it forms pockets. Even if those pockets are more diamond like instead of octagon shaped. I love the way this turned out! This is a more advanced pattern to make.
Note: This pattern alternates from front to back posts each row. Every other row of trfp (triple crochet front post) alternate between going in front of the first two trfp made or behind the first two trfp made. When behind the first two trfp made it is like crocheting in a sandwich because you are between the stitches you just made and the stitches in the previous row.
Look at how much pattern and texture there is in the Honeycomb stitch.
Multiple diamonds, illusion of Xs, raised squiggles that run against one another forming diamond shapes and the honeycomb holes.
This yarn is so much fun to use as it goes from one color to another. The backside of the scarf.
Materials
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
Yarnspirations- Bernat Pop!- 5 oz- foggy notion
Hook- N or 15 or 10.00 MM Needles to sew the yarn ends in with. Scissors for trimming ends after sewing the ends in.
Definitions
ch-A chain doesn’t go through a stitch. A chain is made by starting with a slip stitch or if you are in the middle of a piece and it calls for a chain you yarn over and pull through the one loop that is on the hook.
sc- Single crochet: Put hook through stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over pull through two, leaving one loop on the hook
dc- Double crochet yarn over, go through stitch, yarn over, pull through the stitch, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over pull through last two, leaving one loop on the hook
tr=Triple crochet- similar to double crochet, but you yarn over twice instead of once, then, go through the stitch, yarn over pull through the stitch, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two and then yarn over and pull the last two off. You should have one left on your hook.
fp=Front post this means that instead of crocheting in the top of the stitch like you normally do, you put your hook around the front of the dc post and create your stitch there. (It’s a lot like weaving with your hook, around the post, starting on the front side of your piece.)
This is the backside of the scarf. It has ridges from crocheting in the front posts.
bp= Back post, insert hook around the back of the post instead of crocheting on the top. You have the piece facing you but crochet on the opposite side. This makes a ridge on the front side.
dcbp and trfp are combining the stitch and where that stitch is made. So, dcbp means to double crochet in the back post.
Trfp means to triple crochet around the front post.
Pattern Directions For the Busy Bee Honeycomb Scarf
Chain 27
Row 1: In 3rd chain from hook dc and in each stitch across. 25
Row 2: ch 2 skip 3 dc, trfp around the 4th dc post, trfp around next dc, (this is a little tricky, trfp behind the first 2 trch made to get to the front of the dc. Basically you are crocheting between the dc made in the last row and the trfp made in this row.) trfp around first skipped dc post and then around the next skipped dc post, skip over the first two trfp and skip the next two dc posts, trfp around next 2 dc; this time, go in front of the trfp, repeat from* This pattern will create 3 “Vs” across
Row 3: ch 2 dcbp across, around each tr. Dc in last stitch of row (not around but in it).
Row 4: ch 2 skip 3 dc, trfp around the fourth dc post, trfp next dc, trfp across the front of the two trfp you just made and trfp in the second skipped dc and then in the next dc, skip the first two trfp you made and the next 2 dc, trfp around next dc, trfp around next dc, behind those two trfp you just made tcfp
Row 5: ch 2, dcbp across, around each tr. Dc in chain stitch.
Row 6- 88: Repeat rows 2-5
Row 89: ch 1, sc across in each dc.
Cable stitch to finish
Row 90: ch 1 sc *ch 3 sk 2 sc in next sc, turn, sc back in each 0f the ch 3 you made, slip st in sc, turn, sc in 2 skipped sc repeat across from *
The snapdragon crochet stitch is is one of my favorite stitches for making baby blankets. My kids loved their blankets to the point of wearing them out. Wearing out those blankets were the catalyst to me picking up crocheting again. Before this I had quit crocheting, for many years, because of carpal tunnel issues.
Easy and a great gift!
I love this baby blanket, it works up quickly, it’s pretty and it is a great blanket that has loose stitches and fairly easy to breathe through. I found my daughter like this, frequently during her naps. Any other blanket would have been scary to find her with it over her head! (The blanket in the picture is actually an offset blocks pattern (another one of my favorites), but about the same looseness.) She often wrapped her little fingers around the double crochets. So, secure and comforting to be able to hold her blanket while drifting off to sleep.
Another reason I like this blanket is because it makes a great baby gift!
I had left over yarn from making the Diamond Lace Baby Blanket and thought this would be a great pattern to make with what I had left! The snapdragon stitch alternates between a shell stitch and v stitch which gives it some variety.
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
The yarn I used is Caron Simply Soft. Color (5oz): Saturday Blue Jean Ombre. Using a “K” or 6.5 sized hook.
Snapdragon Baby Blanket -Free Pattern
*I recently noticed an error in row 2 and edited this post/pattern January 18, 2022.
Hook size K or 6.50 MM
Yarn 6 skeins (5oz) Caron Simply Soft: Saturday Blue Jean Ombre
Chain 128 +5
Row 1: Begin with a dc in the 5th chain from the hook. (This makes your 1st “V”), *Skip 3 chains, Dc shell stitch in next chain (5 double crochets in 1 chain), skip 3 chains, dc in next chain, chain 1, Dc in same stitch as first dc (make a “V”), Repeat from *across to end. (Row should end with a “V”. (16 shells, 17 “V”s)
Row 2: Chain 3, 2 dc in first ch stitch, *skip next 3 dc, dc in next dc (3rd double crochet of shell stitch), ch 1, dc in same stitch, skip next 2 double crochets and next double crochet, 5 dc in chain stitch, repeat from* In the last ch 3 dc to end the row. (17 shells [including the partial ones on the ends], 16 “V”s)
Row 3: Chain 4, dc in first dc, *skip 3 dc, 5 dc in chain stitch, skip 3 dc, dc, chain 1, dc, repeat from * In last turn ch of the last row, do your final “V”stitch (dc, ch 1, dc) and turn, (16 shells, 17 “V”s)
Repeat rows 2 and 3, 49 times
52 Rows
Rail Road Border:
This combination looks like little railroad tracks going around the edge of the blanket and the crab stitch gives it a nice finished look!
Base row: ch 1 sc in first stitch and in every stitch in the row. At the corner sc 3 sc in the corner stitch and evenly sc on the side of the blanket. (If you do stitches too close together it will cause a ripple effect in your finished project.) 3 single crochet in the corner and evenly sc across the bottom of the blanket. Sc evenly on the last side. Two sc at the corner and join with a slip stitch.
Row 2: sc in each back loop of each sc around the blanket. In each corner, sc 2 sc in the middle corner stitch. (Each corner had 3 sc in it.)
Row 3: Repeat row 2, but in the 2 corner stitches, of each corner, do 2 stitches in each corner stitch. (Remember back loops only.)
Row 4:Crab Stitch in each sc around blanket, once around, join with a slip stitch and finish off. (The link will take you to a great tutorial that will show how to do the crab stitch.)
Remember to sew in your ends, if you haven’t worked them into the blanket.
I finally got around to making this pretty Diamond Lace baby blanket. I’ve been wanting to crochet it for several months!
What I used
I used Caron Simply Soft 5 oz. yarn and it took approx. 4 1/2 skeins of this yarn. The color I picked is Saturday Blue Jeans Ombre. My hook is a “K” or 6.5 hook.
This post contains affiliate links. I include these links for your convenience to be able to find similar items to what I am using. I earn a small commission for the referral, but your price remains the same.
This crab stitch border gives the blanket a more masculine feeling.
I have never done the crab stitch before and the instructions aren’t with the pattern for the blanket. So, I found this tutorial. It feels really weird to do this stitch since it is crocheting backwards! Where you normally work your piece from right to left, this stitch goes from left to right. I think it has a masculine look to it.
My daughter is going to school in a colder place than where we live. On average, it is 20 degrees cooler where she is than where we are. I found this wonderful, Fluffy Infinity Scarf- free pattern, and thought it would be perfect to help keep her warm! I have been wanting a really nice infinity scarf pattern and this is definitely it! It was fast and easy to put together!
What I Used and Adjustments I Made
I used 3 and 1/2 ish skeins of yarn. I chose the Lion Brand, Wool-Ease, Thick & Quick. It is 80% acrylic and 20% wool. There are 87 yards in one skein. It is machine washable and dryable. (Always a plus!) I used a size “M” hook. However, I made some alterations to the pattern.
*Make sure you check the gauge I had to adjust the pattern because I love the size of the stitches with the “M” hook but my gauge made it huge! The full pattern ran to a full 12 inches! So, I knocked of 10 stitches and had 4 clusters across. So, instead of chaining 32 I did 22ch.
Also, the instructions weren’t clear for row 1. Through trial and error I realized that after the *ch 3- you should then skip 3 ch and then do the DC4tog in the fourth stitch. I didn’t understand that right away in reading the pattern.
It is still thick enough that she can pull part of it up, over her head and keep her ears warm. She wore it out all evening and loved it! It kept her really warm!
I am so tempted to make this into a blanket! It would be so pretty and warm!
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